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来源:家庭医生中文    发布时间:2019年12月07日 17:05:28    编辑:admin         

It started with Natalie Massenet. The Net-a-Porter founder and British Fashion Council chairman was spotted pairing a leopard print Marc Jacobs skirt with a leopard print Valentino Rockstud clutch at New York Fashion Week; the following week in London Kate Moss was seen front row at Topshop’s show in a pair of black leopard print Hysteric Glamour jeans, then, at Paris Fashion Week, stylist Giovanna Battaglia turned up in a vintage early 1990s leopard print Ala?a dress at the designer’s retrospective opening at the Palais Galliera.一切皆肇事于娜塔莉?马斯内(Natalie Massenet),这位Net-a-Porter网店创始人兼英国时装协会主席身穿马克?雅可布(Marc Jacobs)豹纹衬衣,手拎华伦天奴(Valentino) Rockstud豹纹手提包现身纽约时装周(New York Fashion Week);接下来的一周,在伦敦,凯特?莫斯(Kate Moss)身穿日本Hysteric Glamour潮牌牛仔裤就坐于Topshop时装发布会前排;而后的巴黎时装周(Paris Fashion Week),设计师乔瓦娜?巴塔吉利亚(Giovanna Battaglia)身穿上世纪90年代初的老款阿亚拉(Ala?a)裙装现身在加列拉宫(Palais Galliera)举行的个人作品回顾展开幕式。By the time Andrea Mitchell, N News’ chief foreign affairs correspondent, wore a black leopard print trench while delivering her nightly report on the Syrian crisis the trend was official: animal spots are big news.到全球广播公司新闻台(N News)首席外交事务记者安德莉亚?米切尔(Andrea Mitchell)身穿黑色豹纹风衣、在晚间新闻播报叙利亚危机时,整个时尚潮流算是尘埃落定:动物斑纹装登上了头条新闻。“With the amount of prints women are now dressing in, leopard really is the ‘new black’,” says stylist Isabel Dupré, whose equivalent to the little black dress is an Isabel Marant leopard print number she considers her fail-safe go-to. “There is something that s expensive and ‘fashion’ in the print when it is worn right,” she adds. “Most of the time it’s as timeless as wearing black.”“随着女士穿着动物斑纹装渐趋增多,豹纹成为名符其实的流行趋势,”设计师伊莎贝尔?杜普雷(Isabel Dupré)说,她的“小黑礼”(Little black dress)是伊莎贝尔?玛兰(Isabel Marant)豹纹装,她认为它能适用于各种场合。“豹纹装只要穿着得体,就会透出奢侈与‘时尚’气息,”她补充道。“多数情况下,穿黑色豹纹装从不落伍。”“Leopard print really is the new classic,” agrees Colleen Sherin, senior fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue. “Women today should look at leopard as a great investment piece and not something to shy away from because it’s too bold or too old or too young.” Helen David, head of womenswear at Harrods, says that because designers have offered leopard print in paler tones for autumn, it has become a more versatile day-to-evening option. “This season leopard print has firmly established itself,” says David, who bought everything from Roland Mouret’s multicoloured leopard eveningwear to a 3.1 Phillip Lim leather biker jacket with leopard print sleeves for the department store.“豹纹表现的是真正的新古典风格,”萨克斯第五大道(Saks Fifth Avenue)高级时尚总监珂丽恩?谢林(Colleen Sherin)对此表示赞同。“如今的女士应把豹纹装视作奇货可居之物,不能因它太过醒目、老气横秋或是朝气蓬勃而有意规避它。”哈罗德百货(Harrods)女装部总管海伦?大卫(Helen David)说。由于设计师在今秋时装季推出淡色调豹纹装,它已成为左右逢源的饰,能满足工作与社交的各种需求。“这个秋冬季,豹纹装已经牢牢地在时尚界站稳阵脚,”大卫说,她本人也购买了各种豹纹装,从罗兰?穆雷(Roland Mouret)的多色豹纹晚装到菲利普?林3.1(Phillip Lim 3.1)为百货公司设计的豹纹袖款托夹克,品类繁多。She is not the only one. Walk into a Burberry shop anywhere in the world and you will be faced by a plethora of animal spots; leopard print sleeves on a gabardine trench, a pair of metal bow-front patterned pumps, leopard mink trim on a tan drawstring leather bag, a below-the-knee calfskin printed pencil skirt, matching gloves or even an outsized leopard print umbrella.类似者大有人在。走进全球任何一家柏利(Burberry)门店,看到的是形形色色的动物斑纹装——带豹纹袖的华达呢风衣、弓背形金属图案的宫廷鞋(脚面露出较多,没有绑定固定部分,但脚踝部可有系带)、豹貂皮饰边的棕褐色拉带皮包、中长款小牛皮纹紧身窄裙,它们用手套甚至特大号豹纹雨伞搭配,相得益彰。There is no doubt then, that the preferred print of screen sirens Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor – not to mention 73-year-old Raquel Welch, who wore a leopard print dress at a pre-Emmy awards party last month – is making a roaring comeback. And the responses of designers and retailers suggest that it’s here to stay.毫无疑问,昔日影视界时尚女王索菲娅?罗兰(Sophia Loren)与伊丽莎白?泰勒(Elizabeth Taylor)钟爱的豹纹装正强势回归——更甭提73岁的拉奎尔?韦尔奇(Raquel Welch)了,她身穿豹纹裙出席了上月的艾美奖预热晚会(pre-Emmy awards party)。设计师与零售商反响强烈,表明豹纹装前景一片看好。Eva Chen, Lucky magazine editor-in-chief, calls it the “Jenna Lyons effect”, crediting the J Crew president and creative director with “informing women on how to mix and match sailor stripes, animal prints and out-there florals as you would a black or grey T-shirt”.《Lucky》时尚杂志华裔主编陈怡桦(Eva Chen)称之为“詹娜?莱昂斯效应”,她把这归功于时尚品牌J Crew总裁兼创意总监詹娜?莱昂斯(Jenna Lyons),对方“向女士灌输如何把水手条纹、动物斑纹以及异乎寻常的花纹等混搭至黑色或灰色T恤衫上”。“It’s a print that real women, not the red carpet divas, have made their own little by little,” says Stefano Gabbana, who recalls that leopard print dresses were considered daring – scandalous, even – when he co-founded Dolce amp; Gabbana in 1985. “For us, leopard print is universal, irrespective of age or profession,” adds his design partner Domenico Dolce.“豹纹装是‘真女人’(而非歌剧女主角)一点一滴打拼出来的天地,”斯特凡诺?加巴纳(Stefano Gabbana)说,他回忆自己1985年与多梅尼科?多尔切(Domenico Dolce)合创杜嘉班纳(Dolce amp; Gabbana)品牌时,穿豹纹装被视为惊世骇俗之举——甚至可以说有伤风化。“我们觉得豹纹装适合各个年龄段、各种职业,”加巴纳的设计伙伴多尔切补充道。Fellow Italian designer Roberto Cavalli has long had a love for these patterns. “Nature created the animal print and I just put my own twist on it,” he says. “What I appreciate most about leopard is its strong graphic identity that also lends itself to interpretation. As long as you wear it with confidence and ease, leopard will always be empowering.”他俩的意大利同行罗伯特?卡沃利(Roberto Cavalli)长久以来一直很喜欢这些豹纹图样。“大自然的造化缔造了这些动物斑纹,本人只是稍作改动而已,”他说。“我最欣赏豹纹,因为它能很好地通过图样体现穿着者的身份,还能起到一定的诠释作用。只要自信而轻松地穿着豹纹装,它永远显得那么英姿飒爽。”Empowering it may be, but it is best to t carefully while wearing the print in a business setting. “The more black you pair it with, the more that it will help mute the print but still allow it to flash,” says Alexandra Lebenthal, president and chief executive of municipal bond dealer Lebenthal amp; Company, who still counts her 10-year-old Equipment leopard print jacket as a wardrobe staple.尽管英姿飒爽,但出席商务活动时,穿着豹纹装走起路来要尽可能谨小慎微。“你搭配其它饰的颜色越黑,就越能中和豹纹装带来的咄咄逼人气势,但仍可让豹纹装光夺目,”市政债券交易公司Lebenthal amp; Company总裁兼CEO亚历桑德罗?莱贝撒尔(Alexandra Lebenthal)说,她仍把穿了10年的Equipment豹纹夹克视作自己的“镇箱之宝”。At Saks, Sherin advises the feline-shy to ease into the print with an accessory, such as a loafer or as a treatment on a lapel, in lining or as outerwear. “Wear leopard in a place you want to draw the eyes to,” she says.在萨克斯第五大道,谢林建议:不喜欢猫科动物斑纹者可用配饰慢慢过渡至豹纹的办法,如穿双乐福鞋、对翻领及内衬稍作改动、或是用外套来搭配。“把豹纹放在自己希望引发关注的部位,”她说。But at Net-a-Porter, the current popularity of the print was almost a missed opportunity. Having decided to take a break from the ubiquitous pattern this season, fashion director Holli Rogers dropped her spot-free mandate after seeing designers who normally shy away from leopard – from Stella McCartney to Mother of Pearl – embrace it with fervour: “Leopard print felt fresh again – something I wasn’t expecting this season at all.” And her advice on how to embrace the look? “My number one tip is to have fun with leopard,” she says. “Fearlessly experiment.”但目前最流行的豹纹装差点与Net-a-Porter网店失之交臂。时尚总监霍利?罗杰斯(Holli Rogers)原打定主意与今年秋冬季无处不在的豹纹式样“决裂”,但在亲眼目睹从斯特拉?麦卡特尼(Stella McCartney)到Mother of Pearl、这些昔日规避豹纹图样的设计师都对它顶礼膜拜后,也摈弃了不用动物斑纹的设计信条:“这个秋冬季豹纹再次迸发青春气息——这是我压根未曾预料到。”那么她建议该如何对待豹纹装?“本人最佳建议是高高兴兴接受豹纹装,”她说。“勇敢无畏地去尝试它。”The spot market for men: Get in touch with your inner caveman男士豹纹装:满足内心狂野“I guess animal prints have always been a classic – just never in menswear,” says Topman’s creative director Gordon Richardson of the animal print phenomenon that is crossing over into men’s wardrobes. “With the explosion of print and pattern we’ve been witnessing in menswear, an animal print suddenly seems like an easy option for men as a way of updating their wardrobes and looking ahead of the curve.”“我觉得动物斑纹装永远经典——只是原先从不与男装有关,”Topman创意总监戈登?理查德森(Gordon Richardson)这样评价动物斑纹装逐步进入男装领地这种现象。“随着动物斑纹及图样在男装系列遍地开花,它们似乎突然之间成为男士更新换代自己装、实现超前时尚的捷径。”But leopard print for men is not just about affordable T-shirts and sweatshirts; it is also being touted as an ultra luxurious investment buy, writes David Hayes.但男士豹纹装并非只是寻常价位的T恤以及运动衫,它还忽悠成有投资价值的超奢侈消费品,大卫?海耶斯(David Hayes)如是写道。“The ‘snow leopard’ patterned coat is in mink that has been needle-punched through cashmere jacquard,” says Kim Jones, creative director of Louis Vuitton menswear, of the label’s star men’s buy (£5,050). “It’s a brand new technique that we have developed exclusively.”“雪豹纹外套用羊绒提花针轧的貂皮做就,”路易威登(Louis Vuitton)男装创意总监金姆?琼斯(Kim Jones)这样评价旗下推出的、专门针对男士大腕的款式(售价5050英镑)。“这项全新技术是我们专为男士开发。”“I’ve always liked Stephen Sprouse’s leopard print for Louis Vuitton and wanted to make a masculine version of it,” adds Jones.“我一直很喜欢史蒂芬?斯普劳斯(Stephen Sprouse)为路易威登设计的豹纹装,也想设计类似的男装系列,”琼斯补充道。But will leopard print – however luxurious – sell to men? “Some of our clients are on a constant search for unique, limited edition products to make themselves stand out,” says Jones. “I’m always surprised by some of our top clients’ choices; it challenges us to come up with new developments season after season.”但男士豹纹装(不管多奢华)销路会如何?“有些顾客一直在苦苦找寻独具风格的限量版装,以使自己与众不同,”琼斯说。“我总是惊喜于某些高端客户的喜好;他们不断激励我们在每个装季推陈出新。”Another label pioneering leopard for men is British knit trio Sibling, who have made the leopard sweater their own (from £260). “All three of us adore animal prints,” says Cozette McCreery, who teamed up with Sid Bryan and Joe Bates to form Sibling in 2008. “Our wardrobes are like an African dictator’s interior decoration scheme: zebra, leopard spots, tiger stripes, snake print.另一前卫豹纹男装设计师是英国针织装三人组合Sibling,他们推出了自己的豹纹运动衫(售价260英镑起)。“我们三人都酷爱动物斑纹,”柯赛特?麦克里瑞(Cozette McCreery)说,她2008年与希德?布赖恩(Sid Bryan)以及乔?贝兹(Joe Bates)共同创建Sibling品牌。“我们的衣柜酷似非洲独裁者的室内装饰图案大荟萃:斑马纹、豹纹、狮纹以及蛇纹。“Our very first collection incorporated a leopard pattern on a cashmere base and was a firm favourite with everyone from skater guys to city boys,” adds McCreery. Why leopard? “Because it was always our intention to steal from womenswear. Now it’s what store buyers and consumers expect, and, because it feels timeless to us, we are happy to oblige.”“我们设计的第一个系列就把豹纹融入到羊绒制品中,从溜冰小伙到都市男孩,他们对我们的产品爱不释手,欲罢不能,” 麦克里瑞补充说。为何选择豹纹装?“因为我们一直有从女装嫁接设计风格的愿望。如今它是顾客与消费者期盼的产品,因为它永远不落伍,我们乐得顺水推舟。”Have animal prints really become the new neutral for men? Some style insiders are having none of it. “No. It’s a trend, not a classic,” says Mr Porter’s Jeremy Langmead emphatically.动物斑纹装是否真成了男士新的中性装代表?某些时尚业内人士全然不这么认为。“不,它只是股流行风,而非时尚经典,”在线零售商Mr Porter主编杰里米?兰米德(Jeremy Langmead)强调说。“For autumn we have bought animal prints sp broadly across accessories and clothing,” says Langmead. “From leopard sweaters by Raf Simons (£610) and shirts by Acne (£200) to Chelsea boots (£650) by Burberry Prorsum and scarves (£390) from Saint Laurent. But we also have a great pair of grey suede leopard print slippers by Jimmy Choo (£395) which could easily be worn with a dinner suit and are incredibly elegant.”“对于今年的秋冬季,我们采购了广泛运用动物斑纹的各种配饰及装,”兰米德说。“从拉夫?西蒙斯(Raf Simons)的豹纹毛衣(售价610英镑)、艾克妮(Acne)的豹纹衬衣(售价210英镑)、柏利?珀松(Burberry Prorsum)设计的短靴(Chelsea boots,售价650英镑)到圣?罗兰(Saint Laurent)的丝巾(售价390英镑),应有尽有。但我们也采购了Jimmy Choo灰色山羊皮豹纹拖鞋(售价395英镑),它设计精巧,很容易与晚宴小礼搭配穿,显得特别温文尔雅。”“It certainly heralds a new mood for print and texture in menswear. It will be interesting to see how this will evolve,” adds Langmead. “Who knew that men would willingly embrace florals a few years ago, let alone leopard?”“这明确昭示了男装花样与质地出现了新的时尚趋势。能亲眼目睹它如何演变发展很有意义,”兰米德补充道。“几年前,谁都没预见到男士会心甘情愿地喜欢上花式装?更甭提豹纹装了!” /201311/263916。

What do ex-British prime minster Gordon Brown, Jackie Onassis, Britney Spears and I all have in common? We all are (or were) nail biters.英国前首相戈登·布朗(Gordon Brown)、杰奎琳·肯尼迪(Jackie Onassis)、布兰妮·斯皮尔斯(Britney Spears)之间有什么共同点呢?他们都爱(或曾经都爱)咬指甲。It#39;s not a habit I#39;m proud of. It#39;s pretty disgusting for other people to watch, ruins the appearance of my hands, is probably unhygienic and sometimes hurts if I take it too far. I#39;ve tried to quit many times, but have never managed to keep it up.这嗜好我可不喜欢。被别人看到多恶心呀,把双手的形象全毁了,很可能不卫生,如果咬得太深还会受伤。我也几次试图想要戒掉,但从未持之以恒。Lately I#39;ve been wondering what makes someone an inveterate nail-biter like me. Are we weaker willed? More neurotic? Hungrier? Perhaps, somewhere in the annals of psychological research there could be an answer to my question, and maybe even hints about how to cure myself of this unsavoury habit.最近,我总在想是什么让像我这样爱咬指甲的人恶习难改呢?难道和其他人相比我们意志更薄弱?更神经质?更有欲望?也许心理学研究的文献能够给我,也许还能给我一些暗示,教我如何自我摆脱这个令人讨厌的习惯。My first dip into the literature shows up the medical name for excessive nail biting: #39;onychophagia#39;. Psychiatrists classify it as an impulse control problem, alongside things like obsessive compulsive disorder. But this is for extreme cases, where psychiatric help is beneficial, as with other excessive grooming habits like skin picking or hair pulling. I#39;m not at that stage, falling instead among the majority of nail biters who carry on the habit without serious side effects. Up to 45% of teenagers bite their nails, for example; teenagers may be a handful but you wouldn#39;t argue that nearly half of them need medical intervention. I want to understand the #39;subclinical#39; side of the phenomenon – nail biting that isn#39;t a major problem, but still enough of an issue for me to want to be rid of it.第一次浏览文献就发现了过度咬指甲的医学术语:“咬甲癖”(onychophagia)。心理学家把它归于一种冲脉控制问题,即类似强迫症问题。但这仅指极端案例,精神病学对此的帮助颇有成效,对其他过度怪癖也是如此,如:皮肤搔抓症,拔毛癖。我可没到那种程度,只是和大多数爱咬指甲的人一样,一直有这样的癖好,但没什么严重的不良反应。45%以上的青少年爱咬指甲,比如:青少年可能只占一小部分,但你不会说他们中一半人需要接受医学治疗。我想要了解这种现象临床症状不明显的一面——咬指甲没什么大惊小怪,但它对我来说依然是件大事,得去克。It’s mother’s fault都是妈妈的错Psychotherapists have had some theories about nail biting, of course. Sigmund Freud blamed it on arrested psycho-sexual development, at the oral stage (of course). Typical to Freudian theories, oral fixation is linked to myriad causes, such as under-feeding or over-feeding, breast-feeding too long, or problematic relationship with your mother. It also has a grab-bag of resulting symptoms: nail biting, of course, but also a sarcastic personality, smoking, alcoholism and love of oral sex. Other therapists have suggested nail-biting may be due to inward hostility – it is a form of self-mutilation after all – or nervous anxiety.当然,心理学家在咬指甲方面有许多理论。西格蒙德#8226;弗洛伊德(Sigmund Freud)把它归结于性心理发育不良,当然是在口腔期。典型的弗洛伊德理论认为,口欲滞留的原因有很多,诸如:喂食不足或喂食过盛、哺乳时间过长、或与母亲关系不睦。当然,各原因交错也导致了诸多症状的发生:当然,咬指甲是其一,还有为人尖酸刻薄、吸烟、酗酒、喜欢口交。其他理疗师建议将咬指甲归于“内在敌意”——毕竟是某种形式上的自残——或是紧张焦虑。Like most psychodynamic theories these explanations could be true, but there#39;s no particular reason to believe they should be true. Most importantly for me, they don#39;t have any strong suggestions on how to cure myself of the habit. I#39;ve kind of missed the boat as far as extent of breast-feeding goes, and I bite my nails even when I#39;m at my most relaxed, so there doesn#39;t seem to be an easy fix there either. Needless to say, there#39;s no evidence that treatments based on these theories have any special success.像大多心理动力论这样解释也许是说的通的,但没有特别的理由说我们去相信这些解释是对的。对我来说最重要的是:他们并没有任何强有力的说法,如何自己戒掉这个习惯。就母乳喂养的程度而言,我早已过了那时期。甚至在我最放松的情况下我也咬指甲,所以似乎也没有什么简单的解决办法。更不用说,现今没有据明基于这些理论上的治疗有任何特别的成效。Unfortunately, after these speculations, the trail goes cold. A search of a scientific literature reveals only a handful of studies on treatment of nail-biting. One reports that any treatment which made people more aware of the habit seemed to help, but beyond that there is little evidence to report on the habit. Indeed, several of the few articles on nail-biting open by commenting on the surprising lack of literature on the topic.可惜在种种猜测之后,也慢慢无从所知了。检索相关科学文献只发现一些基于如何治疗咬指甲癖的研究。其中一项研究指出:任何让人们愈发认识到咬指甲这个癖好的治疗似乎是有所帮助的,但除此之外并没有什么有关该癖好的报道。事实上,几篇为数不多关于咬指甲的文章公开评述该问题上的文献严重不足。Creature of habit习惯的奴隶Given this lack of prior scientific treatment, I feel free to speculate for myself. So, here is my theory on why people bite their nails, and how to treat it.鉴于之前没有接受过科学治疗,我可以轻松地自我省视。所以以下就是我自己的理论,解释为什么人们会咬指甲,以及如何治疗这个毛病。Let#39;s call it the ‘anti-theory’ theory. I propose that there is no special cause of nail biting – not breastfeeding, chronic anxiety or a lack of motherly love. The advantage of this move is that we don#39;t need to find a particular connection between me, Gordon, Jackie and Britney. Rather, I suggest, nail biting is just the result of a number of factors which – due to random variation – combine in some people to create a bad habit.让我们把这个理论称为“反理论”之理论。我假设没有特殊的原因引发咬指甲——不是因为什么母乳喂养、长期焦虑、缺乏母爱。把这些统统都排除的好处是我们不需要在我和戈登、杰奎琳、布兰妮之间找出一个特别的连接点。我认为:咬指甲仅仅是由于诸多因素引发的——由于随机变异——一些人形成坏习惯的结合。First off, there is the fact that putting your fingers in your mouth is an easy thing to do. It is one of the basic functions for feeding and grooming, and so it is controlled by some pretty fundamental brain circuitry, meaning it can quickly develop into an automatic reaction. Added to this, there is a ‘tidying up’ element to nail biting – keeping them short – which means in the short term at least it can be pleasurable, even if the bigger picture is that you end up tearing your fingers to shreds. This reward element, combined with the ease with which the behaviour can be carried out, means that it is easy for a habit to develop; apart from touching yourself in the genitals it is hard to think of a more immediate way to give yourself a small moment of pleasure, and biting your nails has the advantage of being OK at school. Once established, the habit can become routine – there are many situations in everyone#39;s daily life where you have both your hands and your mouth available to use.首先,有这样一个事实:把你的手指放进嘴里是件很容易的事。这是喂养最基本的功能之一。所以它是受一些最基本脑神经元回路控制的,也就是说它能迅速发展成为一种自动条件反射。此外,对咬指甲有一种“打理”因素——让指甲始终是短的——这就意味着就短期而言至少它能让人心情舒畅,即使其主要是让你的手指苦不堪言。这种奖励因素同行为者采取的愉悦相结合,意味着这种癖好能够轻松养成;除了手淫之外,真的很难想象有什么更为直接的方式让自己愉悦片刻了,而且咬指甲的好处就是在学校这么做完全没问题。这种癖好一旦建立,就会变成常规——每个人的日常生活都有许多你都得使用你的双手和嘴的情况。Understanding nail-biting as a habit has a bleak message for a cure, unfortunately, since we know how hard bad habits can be to break. Most people, at least once per day, will lose concentration on not biting their nails.把咬指甲当作是一种癖好去理解,对治疗的作用并不大,因为遗憾的是我知道摆脱坏习惯有多难。大多数人一天中至少一次会无意识地咬指甲。Nail-biting, in my view, isn#39;t some revealing personality characteristic, nor a maladaptive echo of some useful evolutionary behaviour. It is the product of the shape of our bodies, how hand-to-mouth behaviour is built into (and rewarded in) our brains and the psychology of habit.在我看来,咬指甲并不是揭示了什么人格特征,也不是一些对人类有益进化行为的不良反映。它是我们身体构造的产物,是手对嘴行为如何在人类大脑中建立以及习惯心理的产物。And, yes, I did bite my nails while writing this column. Sometimes even a good theory doesn#39;t help.是的,我在写这篇专栏的时候确实咬指甲了。有时就算是一个好理论也帮不上忙。 /201407/313365。

With all-glass windows from floor to ceiling, sitting five metres below the surface of the Indian Ocean, this is the world#39;s first underwater restaurant.这是世界上第一家水下餐厅,位于印度洋海面下5米处,从地面两侧到天花板都由玻璃窗构成。Boasting unrivalled views of sharks, stingrays, turtles and stunning coral, the five-star eatery at the Conrad Maldives Hotel was built so that guests can enjoy the beauty of the ocean without getting their feet wet.马尔代夫港丽酒店的这家五星级餐厅自称能让顾客最好地观看鲨鱼、黄貂鱼、海龟和绚丽珊瑚。餐厅建造的目的就是让顾客不用下海便能欣赏大海的美丽景致。Set under the crystal-clear blue water, the restaurant is so bright, diners and staff are required to wear sunglasses.因为是在清澈似水晶的湛蓝海水下,餐厅里亮度很高,用餐者和务人员都被要求戴上太阳眼镜。Rated #39;the most beautiful restaurant in the world#39; by the New York Daily News this year, Ithaa - meaning #39;mother of pearl#39; in the Maldivian language of Dihevi - offers breathtaking 180-degree panoramic views.该餐厅名为;Ithaa;,在马来语中意为“珍珠之母”。餐厅提供壮观的180度全景景观,今年被《纽约每日新闻》评为了“全球最美餐厅”。The unusual building seats 14 people - and will set you back £190 per person for dinner.这座与众不同的建筑里可坐下14位顾客,而一顿晚餐的费用高达190英镑(约1993RMB)一人。It serves contemporary European cuisine in a six-course set dinner - including dishes such as caviar and lobster for dinner while the four-course lunch offers lighter fare.餐厅提供现代欧式餐饮,6道菜式的晚餐中包括鱼子酱和龙虾。午餐则是4道菜,费用也相对便宜些。The ingeniously designed restaurant has never had water inside, instead it was built on dry land in Singapore before workers carefully lowered it into the ocean in one piece.这家设计精妙的餐厅中从未进过水,因为它是在新加坡的陆地上建造完成,然后由工人小心翼翼地整个放入海中。 /201405/297357。

Scientists know this much about polycystic ovary syndrome: It is one of the most common causes of infertility. It#39;s linked to diabetes and several other troubling health problems. It affects as many as 5 million U.S. women.关于多囊卵巢综合症,科学家知道的也就是这些:它是不不育的最常见原因之一。它与糖尿病和另外多种恼人的健康问题有关。它影响着多达500万的美国女性。But the condition, also known as PCOS, largely remains a mystery. Researchers are trying to better understand the disorder, which is generally defined by an excess production of the hormone testosterone, irregular ovulation and cysts-fluid-filled sacs-within the ovaries. Some teams are trying to improve its treatment to lessen its impact on women#39;s reproductive health and metabolism, or how the body uses or makes energy.但多囊症总体上还是一个迷。研究人员正在努力更好地理解这一病症。它大体上被定义为睾丸激素分泌过多、排卵不规律、卵巢内存在囊肿(积液囊)。有些团队希望改进治疗方案,减轻它对女性生殖健康和新陈代谢(身体使用或产生能量的过程)的影响。#39;We really need better options,#39; says Esther Eisenberg, project scientist of the Reproductive Medicine Network, a research collaboration set up and funded through the Eunice Kennedy Shriver National Institute of Child Health and Human Development.尤尼斯#12539;肯尼迪#12539;施莱佛美国国家儿童健康与人类发育研究所(Eunice Kennedy Shriver National Institute of Child Health and Human Development)设立并资助的研究协作团体“生殖医学网络”(Reproductive Medicine Network)项目科学家埃丝特#12539;艾森伯格(Esther Eisenberg)说:“我们真的需要更好的选择。”Even the diagnosis of PCOS can be tricky because the syndrome doesn#39;t look the same in everyone. What is called PCOS is likely a number of different diseases that manifest similar symptoms, such as acne, excess facial- and body-hair growth in reproductive-aged females, insulin resistance and abnormal menstrual periods, according to experts.多囊症的诊断有时候都很困难,因为这一综合症并不是在每个人身上都表现得一样。据专家说,所谓多囊症可能是一系列表现为相似症状的不同疾病,这些症状包括痤疮、育龄妇女面部和身体毛发过旺、胰岛素抵抗、月经不调等。Over 60% of women with PCOS are overweight or obese. Excess hair growth, called hirsutism, also can differ by ethnicity, as can body weight. Such demographic differences can cause doctors to have difficulty identifying PCOS in those patients. And since most girls have irregular periods when they first start menstruating, misdiagnosis may be more likely to occur with young adolescents.六成以上多囊症妇女都存在过重或肥胖的问题。毛发生长过旺(称为“多毛症”)的情况可能因为种族的不同而不同,体重问题也是如此。这些人口学差异可能导致医生在诊断这些病人的多囊症时发生困难。由于大多数女孩在刚开始来月经时都存在经期不正常的问题,在青少年身上或许更有可能发生误诊。Insulin resistance, an inability to properly process sugar, is common, regardless of body weight. This can greatly raise the risk in PCOS patients of developing diabetes. The uterine lining may build up excessively, which is related to the lack of ovulation, and endometrial cancer risk appears to be increased as well. And women with PCOS often have trouble conceiving because they may not ovulate regularly, and may be more likely to miscarry. There also are concerns about an increased risk of heart disease, although no definitive data support that notion.胰岛素抵抗(无法有效处理糖分)是常见病征,与体重无关。它可以极大地提高多囊症患者患上糖尿病的风险。子宫内膜可能会过度生长,而这与排卵缺乏有关。患子宫内膜癌的风险似乎也会增加。多囊症女性之所以存在生育困难,是因为她们的排卵可能不规律,流产的概率也可能更大。另外还有心脏病风险增加的担忧,不过没有确切数据持这样一种说法。Researchers fear a general rise in obesity is causing a spike in PCOS, too, though they don#39;t have enough longitudinal data to say definitively.研究人员担心,肥胖率的总体上升也在造成多囊症患病率的猛增。不过他们没有足够的纵向数据来得出确切的结论。PCOS appears to have a genetic component that may be triggered or influenced by environmental factors, like weight gain, later in life. But scientists are still trying to determine exactly what goes wrong. The symptoms of PCOS are at least in part due to excess androgens, the family of hormones to which testosterone belongs.多囊症似乎含有一种遗传成分,这种成分可能会受到年龄增大时体重增加等环境因素的诱发或影响。但科学家仍在试图明确究竟是什么地方出了问题。多囊症的症状至少在一定程度上是因为雄激素(指包括睾丸激素在内的一系列激素)过多。The womb environment also appears critical to its development. Daniel Dumesic, a professor of reproductive endocrinology and infertility at the University of California, Los Angeles, and his colleagues found that by exposing mother monkeys with high doses of testosterone, their female offspring developed PCOS-like features after birth, including higher testosterone levels.子宫环境似乎也是形成多囊症的关键。加州大学洛杉矶分校(University of California, Los Angeles)生殖内分泌与不不育教授丹尼尔#12539;杜麦西克(Daniel Dumesic)及其同事发现,将母猴暴露于高剂量的睾丸激素,它们的雌性后代在出生之后出现了类似于多囊症的特征,比如更高的睾丸激素水平。They now are studying whether the bodies of women with PCOS, because of excess testosterone, store fat in tissues where it shouldn#39;t be. Dr. Dumesic hypothesizes that this may impact the function of the ovary and perhaps fertility.现在他们在研究多囊症患者的身体是否会因为睾丸激素而在本不应储存脂肪的组织中储存脂肪。杜麦西克假想,这一点可能会影响卵巢功能和生育能力。Christopher McCartney, a professor of medicine at the University of Virginia, is examining whether the high levels of testosterone could increase the body#39;s secretion of another chemical, called luteinizing hormone, or LH, at puberty, contributing to the development of PCOS. LH, in turn, is needed for the ovaries to produce testosterone, so high levels of LH may be helping produce additional testosterone, leading to a vicious cycle, Dr. McCartney says.弗吉尼亚大学(University of Virginia)医学教授克里斯托弗#12539;麦卡特尼(Christopher McCartney)正在检验高水平的睾丸激素是否有可能增加体内另一种化学物质“促黄体生成素”在青春期的分泌,从而促进多囊症的形成。麦卡特尼说,促黄体生成素又是卵巢产生睾丸激素所需的物质,所以高水平的促黄体生成素可能是在帮助形成过多的睾丸激素,构成了一种恶性循环。Why the syndrome increases the risk of diabetes remains unclear. One possibility is that because the body doesn#39;t respond well to insulin, it overcompensates to make more of it, which leads to increased levels of luteinizing hormone and lower levels of follicle-stimulating hormone, as well as increased ovarian production of androgens.多囊症增加糖尿病风险的原因仍旧不明。有一种可能性是,因为身体对胰岛素的反应不敏感,作为补偿它便过多地生成胰岛素。过多的胰岛素会导致促黄体生成素水平提高、促卵泡生成素水平下降、卵巢雄激素分泌增加。Together, these slow or prevent ovulation, according to Richard Legro, a professor of obstetrics and gynecology and public health sciences at Penn State University College of Medicine in Hershey, Pa.据宾州赫希市宾夕法尼亚州立大学医学院(Penn State University College of Medicine)妇产科与公共卫生学教授理查德#12539;勒格罗(Richard Legro)说,这些因素会一起延缓或阻止排卵。#39;It#39;s likely that the menstrual and reproductive dysfunction is a harbinger of later metabolic abnormalities like diabetes,#39; Dr. Legro says.勒格罗说:“月经和生殖障碍可能是糖尿病之类后期代谢异常的先兆。”Treatments include hormonal contraceptives to prompt ovaries to stop producing testosterone and other hormones, plus anti-androgen medications like flutamide, usually used to treat prostate cancer, and insulin sensitizers for metabolic issues. Metformin, which isn#39;t an insulin sensitizer but is used to treat high blood sugar, is given as well on a case-by-case basis. Some of these treatments carry risks and most, with the exception of metformin, can#39;t be used when women are trying to get pregnant.治疗办法包括用激素避药,促使卵巢停止产生睾丸激素和其他激素,用通常用于治疗前列腺癌的氟他胺等抗雄激素药物,以及针对代谢问题用胰岛素增敏剂。本身不是增敏剂但用于治疗高血糖的二甲双胍也可酌情让病人用。这些治疗方法中的一部分存在风险,除了二甲双胍之外,大多数治疗方法都不能在妇女准备怀的时候使用。Lourdes Ibá#241;ez, a professor of pediatrics at the University of Barcelona, has been studying combination treatments for PCOS. She found that metformin, an insulin sensitizer called pioglitazone and flutamide taken together performed better than oral contraceptives. Oral contraceptives appeared to actually worsen the girls#39; metabolic abnormalities.巴塞罗纳大学(University of Barcelona)儿科教授洛德斯#12539;伊瓦涅斯(Lourdes Ibanez)一直在研究多囊症的组合治疗。她发现,二甲双胍、胰岛素增敏剂“?格列酮”和氟他胺一起用的效果好于口避药。口避药似乎还加重了女孩的代谢异常。Six months after the 18-month treatment, no one in the combination therapy group has relapsed but 50% of those in the oral contraceptive groups have, according to a paper Dr. Ibá#241;ez published in 2013 in the Journal of Clinical Endocrinology amp; Metabolism.根据伊瓦涅斯2013年发表在《临床内分泌和代谢杂志》(Journal of Clinical Endocrinology amp; Metabolism)上的论文,经过18个月的治疗并观察六个月之后,组合治疗组里面无人复发,而口避药组里面50%的人复发。She is also studying whether the symptoms of PCOS can be prevented in girls at high risk for the condition. She conducted a tiny pilot study of 38 girls who were born with a low birth weight and had precocious puberty, which are often precursors to PCOS.她也正在研究能不能阻止患多囊症风险较高的女孩出现多囊症症状。她对38名出生体重低、性早熟(常常是多囊症的先兆)的女孩展开了一项微型试点研究。She began treating them with metformin between ages 8 to 12. At 18 years old, the rate of detectable symptoms in the treated group was 5%, compared with 50% of those in the untreated group. She hopes to run a larger trial to further explore the possibility of prevention.她在她们八岁到12岁的时候开始用二甲双胍治疗。在18岁的时候,治疗组出现可观测症状的比例为5%,未治疗组的比例为50%。她希望开展一场规模更大的试验,以进一步探索预防多囊症的可能性。Scientists also have focused on improving fertility in women with PCOS. With clomiphene citrate, the most commonly used agent for ovulation induction in women with PCOS, only about half the women who ovulate end up having babies, according to NICHD#39;s Dr. Eisenberg.科学家也一直在集中精力改善多囊症妇女的生育能力。据艾森伯格说,在用多囊症患者最常用的排卵诱导剂枸橼酸氯米芬(克洛米芬)的情况下,只有大约一半成功排卵的妇女最后生了孩子。Dr. Eisenberg, Penn State#39;s Dr. Legro and the Reproductive Medicine Network have been running a clinical trial to improve fertility. In a presentation to the American Society for Reproductive Medicine in October, they showed that early results indicate a medication called letrozole, a drug commonly used for in vitro fertilization, appears to result in more live births than clomiphene.艾森伯格、宾大的列格罗以及生殖医学网络已经在做一次旨在提高生育率的临床试验。他们在2013年10月份向美国生殖医学会(American Society for Reproductive Medicine)做报告的时候表示,初步结果表明,常常用于体外授精的来曲唑产生的活胎数量似乎高于枸橼酸氯米芬。One of those success stories was Lindsey Maloney, from Fredericksburg, Va. She had so much facial hair she started waxing it off in the fifth grade and always struggled with her weight because of insulin resistance. She had her period only once in the seventh grade and was first diagnosed with PCOS at 15.弗吉尼亚州弗雷德里克斯堡的琳赛#12539;马洛尼(Lindsey Maloney)便是成功例子之一。由于面部毛发过多,她在上五年级的时候便开始动手脱毛;而因为胰岛素抵抗,她又总是因为体重问题而烦恼。她只在上七年级的时候有过一次例假,15岁时第一次诊出多囊症。When Ms. Maloney, now a 29-year-old school counselor, got engaged to her now-husband, her fertility worried her. When the couple heard about Dr. Legro#39;s study, Ms. Maloney enrolled and drove three hours to Hershey once a month for drugs to help her ovulate. She was randomly assigned to the letrozole group, she says.马洛尼现年29岁,是一名中学辅导员。在跟现在的丈夫订婚时,她因为自己的生育能力而担忧。夫妻二人听说列格罗的研究时,马洛尼加入了研究,每个月开车三小时到赫希去用帮助她排卵的药物。她说,她被随机分配到用来曲唑的小组。They now have a 2-year-old girl, Briley. Ms. Maloney and her husband are trying for a second child on their own and haven#39;t had any luck yet.现在他们的女儿布里利(Briley)已经两岁了。马洛尼和丈夫正在尝试自行育第二个孩子,目前尚未成功。Ms. Maloney has been taking metformin since she was a teenager, sees an endocrinologist every three months and buys supplements and organic foods without hormones in them, but her symptoms have remained, she says.马洛尼说,她从十几岁以来一直在用二甲双胍,每三个月都要看一次内分泌科医生,她还购买补充剂和没有激素的有机食品,但症状依然没有消失。#39;It#39;s not just on your ovaries. It#39;s a whole mess of endocrine problems that you have,#39; she says.她说:“不只是卵巢的问题,而是一大堆内分泌问题。” /201402/277278。

Miguel BustilloMiguel BustilloAlexandra Zapruder : An Iconic Film Leaves Complicated Legacy亚历山德拉?泽普鲁德(Alexandra Zapruder):珍贵影像留下的复杂遗产It has been five decades since her late grandfather captured those fateful 26 seconds on Kodachrome film, but people still ask Alexandra Zapruder if she is that Zapruder.50年前,亚历山德拉?泽普鲁德已故祖父用他的柯达胶片捕捉到肯尼迪遇刺瞬间26秒的影像。但到今天仍有人会问亚历山德拉?泽普鲁德她是不是拍摄那段影像的人。Abraham Zapruder#39;s film forever changed his family#39;s fortunes. It garnered them millions of dollars, but tied their name to one of the most infamous events in U.S. history.亚伯拉罕?泽普鲁德(Abraham Zapruder)拍摄的影像永久地改变了他家庭的命运。那段影像为他们带来了数百万美元,但也把他们的名字同美国历史上最臭名昭著的事件之一联系在了一起。#39;My attitude and feelings toward the film-and to the strange, odd, weird events surrounding it-are complicated,#39; said Ms. Zapruder, a 44-year-old writer who lives outside of Washington, D.C.现年44岁的亚历山德拉?泽普鲁德说:我对于那段影像以及围绕那段影像发生的奇怪和不可思议的事件抱有复杂的态度和情感。她是一位作家,居住在华盛顿郊外。Her grandfather, a Dallas dressmaker and Russian immigrant, found himself in possession of priceless historical evidence when he captured John F. Kennedy#39;s assassination with his Bell amp; Howell home-movie camera.她的祖父是一位俄罗斯移民,在达拉斯从事裁缝工作。他用自己的Bell amp; Howell家用摄像机拍摄下了肯尼迪遇刺的影像,从而拥有了无价的历史资料。But his relationship to the footage was #39;not a happy one,#39; Ms. Zapruder said. A Kennedy supporter, he felt the film exacerbated Jacqueline Kennedy#39;s grief. He had nightmares about the assassination for the rest of his life and rarely used his camera again, she said.但亚历山德拉?泽普鲁德说,那段影片为她祖父带来了不愉快的经历。作为肯尼迪的持者,他感觉这段影像加剧了杰奎琳?肯尼迪(Jacqueline Kennedy)的痛苦。她表示,祖父在余生中经常会做有关肯尼迪遇刺的噩梦,而且几乎没有再使用过那部摄像机。In the shooting#39;s aftermath, Mr. Zapruder was questioned by law-enforcement officials and hounded by the media, whom he worried would exploit the footage. He nonetheless sold the film#39;s rights for 0,000 to Life magazine, which initially decided not to publish the frame showing the gruesome shot to the president#39;s head.在刺杀事件发生后,亚伯拉罕?泽普鲁德曾遭遇执法官员的质询和媒体的追逐,他曾担心媒体会利用他拍摄的影像。尽管如此,他还是以15万美元的价格将这段影像的版权卖给了《生活》(Life)杂志,该杂志起初决定不公开肯尼迪头部中的可怕画面。The Zapruder film took on a life of its own. Interest grew exponentially after a bootleg copy appeared on national TV in 1975 and again when Oliver Stone used clips from it in his 1991 movie #39;JFK.#39; By then, Life had sold the film back to the family for .后来亚伯拉罕?泽普鲁德拍摄的这段影像越来越受到关注。在1975年一段盗版影像出现在国家电视台上后,外界对它的兴趣暴增,在奥利弗?斯通(Oliver Stone)在1991年拍摄的电影《刺杀肯尼迪》(JFK)中使用了这段影像的片段后,这种情况再度出现。那时,《生活》杂志已经以1美元的价格将这段影像回售给泽普鲁德家族。The federal Assassination Records Review Board decided in 1997 the government should take the original copy, which required it to reimburse the family for the film#39;s fair market value. But the family and the government disagreed on its price. The Zapruders had been making about ,000 a year by granting the right to reproduce the images, according to legal documents filed during arbitration between the Zapruders and the Justice Department. The department eventually paid the Zapruders million in 1999.联邦暗杀记录审查委员会(Federal Assassination Records Review Board)在1997年决定,政府应该获得影像原件,这需要以合理的市场价值赔偿给泽普鲁德家族。但该家族和政府之间在价格问题上意见分歧。据泽普鲁德家族与司法部(Justice Department)在仲裁期间提交的法律文件显示,该家族通过授权复制该影像每年可获得约2万美元。司法部在1999年最终向泽普鲁德家族付了1,600万美元。The Zapruders later transferred the copyright on the film to Dallas#39;s Sixth Floor Museum, which chronicles the assassination. They rarely spoke to the media about the film in depth until Life asked Ms. Zapruder earlier this year to write a story about her grandfather for a 50th anniversary coffee-table book.泽普鲁德家族后来把该影像的版权转让给达拉斯的六楼物馆(Sixth Floor Museum),这是一家专门保存肯尼迪刺杀案相关档案的主流物馆。他们极少对媒体深入谈论过这段影像,直到今年初《生活》杂志要求亚历山德拉?泽普鲁德为一本纪念肯尼迪遇刺50周年的书籍写写关于她祖父的故事。Ms. Zapruder said her family didn#39;t often speak privately about the film, either, while she was growing up. Her grandfather died in 1970 when she was 10 months old. It took her years to realize, after interviewing relatives and family friends and researching public testimony by her grandfather, how much anguish the assassination caused him.亚历山德拉?泽普鲁德说,在她成长期间,她的家庭私下也不常谈论这段影像。她祖父在1970年去世时她才10个月大。经过了很多年,在采访了亲戚、家族朋友和研究她祖父所作的公开词之后,她才意识到,遇刺事件对祖父造成了多么大的痛苦。She has come to accept the legacy that follows the Zapruder name.她已经开始接受泽普鲁德家族的这一遗产。#39;I don#39;t feel that it is a tragic burden,#39; Ms. Zapruder said. #39;It is a fact of our life.#39;她表示:我认为这不是一个悲惨的负担,这是我们生活中的一个事实。 /201311/266028。